GZ Expat, Part II

End Of An Icon

When in Hong Kong, I can no longer go 'Someplace Else.'  A month ago, the venerable bar, located in the basement of the Sheraton Hotel was closed for good. 

WAY back in 1996 when we first arrived in Hong Kong for the very first time as new, wide-eyed expats, we walked the gauntlet at Kai Tak Airport (better known as the greeting area), stayed at the Hyatt Regency and then had our first dinner at Someplace Else.  All of the above, are now closed.

It was a long May day back in 1996.  We were up early for our flight...the entire family went to the airport to see us off.  The flight was GZ Tai Tai's first flight since she was a little girl...it was Fly Rice's first flight...and it was definitely all of our first trip outside the USA (Canada no withstanding). 

We were greeted by my boss in Hong Kong and he helped pack us into a taxi and get us checked into the hotel.  We had about 30 minutes to clean up and then we were meeting for dinner.  "Where are we heading?" 

"Someplace Else," was the reply.

Uhh...ok, I know its been a long day/flight and this city is big, but what exactly does that mean?  Well, we found out.  Unfortunately, by this time, the jet lag began to set in. The evening sort of fell into a fog

I cannot remember what I had for dinner...but I remember Fly Rice's meal...spaghetti.  As she struggled to keep here eyes open during the meal, she began to nod off...jerking her head up, her nose millimeters from hitting the mountain of pasta in front of her. 

From that moment, Someplace Else was one of those spots we would frequent during visits.  Whether it was a quick lunch, drink or a decent dinner.  It was the spot our friends said was a main stop on the 'Happy Hour' tour in the mid 90's.   In the last few years, though, it sort of fell off our radar...and apparently everyone else's. 

My last visit was just days before it was to close.  The bar had already been reduced to about 1/3 of its former size...but the hardwood floors and green booth chairs still in place.  The beer was cold and the bar was full of old HK expats having a final pint in a familiar setting.

It was just another sad sign of the changing face of Hong Kong...and another reminder that I am getting older and older by the day.

I Don't Need a Tailor, Copy Watch, etc...

I've posted about how disappointing Hong Kong has been recently.  As noted before, the crush of tourists and the 'charm' of the city seemed to have gone away. 

The most recent example of this has been in and around the main area we have stayed when making our weekend shopping/eating getaways; Tsim Sha Tsui.  And, it all seemed to coincide with the closure of our favorite hotel, the Hyatt Regency.  Or, as expat son called it, 'Emily's House.'

What am I talking about?  Street Touts.  Specifically, the gauntlet of Indian touts on Nathan Road between the Sheraton Hotel and the Holiday Inn

"Tailor, sir?  Very good tailor for you."
"Copy watch?  Copy handbag?"

I can handle it once, but its 10...15...20 times in a 100 meter stretch of road.  Expat son and I play the game of how many ask us when we walk through the area.  I think the highest was just over 30. 

And, the irritating thing about it...they only ask gweilos...they don't ask anyone looking the least bit Asian.  GZ Tai Tai actually confronted one of these guys and asked him, why?  Turns out, they know the Chinese have access to all that cheap stuff at home.  Well, for chrissake, WE are Chinese too!  I can get that copy watch or handbag or whatever you have to offer for 1/4 the cost you want to hose me for it...OK?

As a result, TST has become less and less of a place we want to shop any longer.  Instead, heading over to Central or to one of the many malls that line the MTR line. 

Hong Kong is losing one of its premier shopping districts to these people.  The over crowded streets are bad enough, nevertheless having these guys hanging out just waiting for someone to pass by. 

And, they act as if its all illegal and pop up to you and ask you on the sly.  C'mon...if this was illegal, why aren't the police taking care of this, because there is WAY too much of it to be something that the police really care about.

And...don't even get me going about the Indian & Russian hookers on the side streets around the Holiday Inn...

A Weekend of Surprises

Back home and back into the groove after a weekend in HK dropping down thousands of HKD on those annual check-ups and doctor visits.  My credit card is still smoking from the activity...

Friday was Tai-Tai and expat son visiting doctors...primarily Tai-Tai's yearly yuck visits to the OB/GYN.  As most offices are fairly small and located in various office buildings, they don't necessarily have all the equipment needed to check everything they can.  Instead, you go to one office, and they shoot you across town to another office for the 2nd part, and then another for the third, etc.  They also did their visit to the optometrist on this day too. 

On Friday evening, I arrived, after finishing up stuff at work.  I hopped on the afternoon KTT train to HK and I was checked into the hotel and meeting Tai-Tai and Expat Son at Dan Ryans by 6:15pm for dinner. 

Dan Ryan's is a regular stop for us (and many others) in HK.  It's just a typical American food place, specializing in steaks and burgers.  It is always crammed packed with people and the food is consistent.  This visit was a bit different.  When Tai-Tai made the reservation, the girl asked if we would be out of the chair by 8pm.  Usually that isn't a problem...and we usually so OK.  So, when I arrived to grab the table at 6:15, the same girl (Tai-Tai would tell me later) asked me if we would vacate by 7:45pm.  I told her, 'That all depends upon your service and hospitality, ' but really wanting to say, 'I'll leave when I and f*ing well ready to leave.'

So, we sat down and enjoyed our meal...way in the back of the restaurant.  Expat son and I shared the fisherman's platter (which was decidedly smaller than when previously ordered) and Tai-Tai had the prime rib.  Food was good...drink was good.  But...just as we were about to think about finishing, here came the hostess with her pad and pen, peeking at our table to see if we were done or not...it was 7:15pm.  I dunno about you, but I hate...absolutely hate...to be rushed out of a restaurant. 

As the hostess' luck would have it...we were all stuffed.  No dessert on this night, but after finishing up my beer and ordering the check, it would be right at 7:45pm before we would get up to walk.  Had we ordered dessert...we would have been late and she would have been in a hurt, because she overbooked the restaurant. 

This whole episode was a bit surprising as we have plunked down thousands in Dan Ryan's over the years.  The food is always good and consistent...but the service on this time was just a bit too much for us.  It left a bad taste in our mouths.  A taste that could be easily replaced, as we would find out the next evening.

On Saturday, it was off to the dentist for the lot of us...getting the general check-up and cleaning required each year.  I heard once again how crappy my teeth are and Tai-Tai heard, once again, how wonderful her teeth are.  Same old...

I had an appointment with the optometrist immediately after the dentist, so I had to hoof it from Jardine House to the Prince's Building in less than 15 minutes.  Made it just in time and went in for the exam.  Surprise number two was coming.

About 4 months ago, I went to HK to have a chalazion removed from my eyelid.  Immediately upon returning from our trip this summer, I had a return case on the upper eyelid.  It was minor and was going away, at least that is what I thought.  The Dr. looked at it and told me that he couldn't examine my eyes, because of the infection, he would have to do a little surgery to remove it.  Arrghghg...OK.  So, he snipped it out and I was rewarded with a big ol' patch on my eye for the remainder of the day. 

After walking around with one eye for the day, I was getting a bit woozy from it...so I headed back to the hotel for some shut-eye.  Tai-Tai and I agreed to meet at Jimmy's Kitchen for dinner that night.

Jimmy's is a HK institution and has only been the past couple of years that we have discovered it.  Step into Jimmy's and you step back in time to the 60's, with waiters in white jackets and hostesses that greet you with a smile and seat you at the table of your choice, if you want.  Jimmy's does it all...from steaks and seafood to curry's and pasta. 

Needless to say, we had a wonderful meal...very relaxed and not rushed at all.  It was fantastic.  In the past, I had always though Jimmy's was a little more expensive than other restaurants, like Dan Ryan's.  Well, it is...but only slightly.  I think I may have paid HKD200 more for this meal that I would for a similar meal and Dan Ryan's...and they don't push you out the door at Jimmy's.  I think Jimmy's is now our first choice for International/Western food when in HK.

The final surprise I had was on our final day.  We did a little shopping and we had a break in the mid day while awaiting our departure.  I decided to head downstairs and have a stogie outside the hotel.  We were staying at the Holiday Inn Golden Mile...first time for us.  The hotel is located on Nathan Rd, right in the middle of the Indian section of Kowloon.  Loads of Indian merchants and touts bugging you at every street corner...'Copy watch...handbag...tailor???'  Ughghgh...I can't stand that.  Anyway, I walked up and down the back streets enjoying my stogie. 

In doing this, I noticed many Indian men and women just sort of hanging around.  The women were dressed brightly in traditional clothes.  Some of them sat...others strolled along, alone.  I was just window shopping, passing back and forth on the same street, looking at watches and cameras.  There I was, puffing away, when this hand eases up around my elbow and this woman asking, 'Massage?  Very good company.'  Ughghgh...Indian whores!  Now, I had seen it all.  HK always had the nightlife of Filipino and Thai girls down in Wanchai...but this was just over the top.  An Indian woman with a nose stud, traditional clothes, asking if I wanted 'good company.'  ughghghhg...  One thing she did have going for her...a very nice smile and white teeth...the rest of it was just creepy. 

Repeating 'no thank you' about 10 times didn't seem to discourage her.  Finally, I had to pull away my arm and walk away.  All I could think of was...how disappointing to have this going on outside the hotel we were staying...a hotel that sort of specializes in families, etc.  Then I thought...she is one of millions...and I pity her life.  Hope she can get out and have a real family some day.

Back to work today...fussing with computer/network problems and attempting to rip the new CD's I picked up in HK...I'm just hoping for no more surprises along the way!!

UPDATE:  Thanks to my spell checker Tai-Tai...I misspelled 'surprise' in the title.  :(

Fathers Day Hong Kong 5's Hockey Road Trip

*click on any of the photo's to see the full sized picture*

Father's Day is not a day that I mark on my calendar with feverish anticipation.  This year, coincidence seemed to mark the event/day for a father such as me.

I heard from a friend, who read it in a magazine...you know the story...that there was a major amatuer ice hockey tournament taking place in Hong Kong during the week of June 10th.  Hmmm...I had to look a little further into it and I finally discovered the website that was putting it all together.

I downloaded the schedule to find that they had games all day long...from early morning to late evening, all week long.  I staked out a date to visit...the last day...championship day...and set about my schedule to getting into HK on that day to catch the sounds and smells of some hockey in a far off land.  It just happened, that the day was Father's Day...which I didn't really realize until that week! 

We departed GZ on the first train and arrived in HK around 10am and headed directly to the new rink at the MegaBox center.  This is a new mall situated in the middle of nowhere (in terms of major shopping districts go) that focuses on home improvement and the like.  After taking the KCR to Kowloon Tong and switching to the MTR, we go off at Kowloon Bay and walked about 10 minutes to the mall.  The streets were deserted at the time of morning we were there...but, there were still plenty of people heading to the 'Box'. 

When we arrived, we asked the receptionist in the lobby, 'which way to the hockey tournament'.  She told us...'Please take the elevator to the tenth floor.'  TENTH?!  An ice rink on the tenth floor??  Up we went.   

We arrived to crowds of people around the glass enjoying a semi-final game (early in the 2nd) between the Hong Kong Tigers and the Bangkok Flying Farangs .  These were men playing a boys game...it was fast, and...ahhh...it felt so right.   

The great thing about the MegaBox is the MegaIce!  That's right, they have the 'first International size ice rink in Hong Kong' according to the brochure we received.  It's not international sized...well, I guess it is to them...it is North American sized.   Compared to the sheet at the Dragon Centre...its definitely international sized!  But, it is also not set in the center of the building, it is off to one of the sides with a wall of glass viewing out on Kowloon Bay in front, the old Kai-Tak Airport behind that and Hong Kong island in the distance...only in Hong Kong could they give you the wonder of hockey on the 10th floor of a glass encased skyscraper! 

We settled in and watched the Tigers take on the Farangs.  The games are played in three 12 minute periods.  The clock continuously runs down, unless the referee calls time out for an injury, or the bench calls timeout.  There are 3 minute breaks between periods...and the Zamboni only comes out between games. 

Basically, these teams are made up of a variety of expats that have a love for the game and they take it with them when they move overseas (see Tropic Of Hockey, by Dave Bidini).  The entire HK team was comprised of Canadian expats(with a couple token Americans thrown in for good measure)...and it showed.  They were a very good team with a decent bench and a good goaltender.  The Bangkok team had a couple of Thai nationals playing with them...and overall, they lacked some of the skill of their HK counterparts.  As more and more crowd filled in around us, the game became better and better.  Dwayne Ripley of the Tigers scored a late 3rd period goal to go up 1-0 and then Greg Smyth (you related to Ryan??) added an empty netter for the final score of 2-0.  The Tigers would advance to the championship game 1 hour later against Taipei Typhoon...more on that later.

The second game was the championship of the women's division between Hong Kong's WIHO and the Red Bullets from Japan.  Again, although the WIHO team was from Hong Kong, its members were predominately from Canada...but all the girls were Asian (I am assuming transplanted Hong Konger's that grew up with a love for the sport), except their goaltender, who was very good in net.  The Red Bullets were an all Japanese team.

What was noticeable from the start of this game was the precision and discipline of the WIHO team during workouts.  Everything was choreographed and very well done.  The Red Bullets skated and warmed up their goaltender in a relaxed manner.  The uniforms of the WIHO team were crisp...new...well coordinated with the shorts and helmets.  The Red Bullets uniforms seems a little old and thin.  Looks can be deceiving.  After the game started, there was an edge to the Red Bullets play that I noticed right away...throwing that extra elbow in after the whistle blows...skating and brushing by an opponent during line changes...the little things.  This was a team full of Matt Cooke's!  And they had the wheels and the skills to play the game.  The WIHO team took some early tripping penalties because they couldn't keep up.  The Red Bullets were skating well...and the WIHO team appeared out classed...but, they had Luongo in goal (at least it seemed that way).  Zulia Mitchell Kirsten Rendell was big and imposing in the net...when she crouched in the butterfly, she took up a lot of space. 

The game went on for 3 periods with momentum slowly shifting towards the Red Bullets through some tough play.  This team was aggressive and they took some bad penalties as a result...but, their message was being sent and the WIHO team was becoming timid in the middle as a result.   But, after 3 periods, it was deadlocked  0-0. 

WIHO caught a break quickly into OT with Adrienne Li breaking on the left side, collecting a rebound and shoving it into the goal for the win (pictured at the left), sending the girls on to the ice in a mad celebration.  Part of me thinks that they all knew how lucky they were to win that game while being outshot 12-7 and out played in most aspects of the game...it all comes down to a lucky bounce or a break in OT.  This was a fun game to watch, for some reason when women play men's sports (yeah, yeah...give me the sexist comments OK?!) they really play with a passion and a drive.  These women all wanted this game badly and they played like it.

The last game we caught was the championship match of the International A competition between the unbeaten teams from Hong Kong and Taipei.  This game game was raucous from the drop of the first puck with both teams hitting hard (and taking penalties for it, as body checking is not allowed) and skating equally as hard.

The Typhoon from Taipei came out especially hard at the start, wanting to send a quick message to the host team.  They skated very hard to the net and had some quality chances early.  But, after a booming body check early in the match by Matt Malgrave (and taking the penalty as a result) of the HK Tigers, the tide began to shift.  Later in the second period, with Taipei pressing in front of the net, Troy Steenson spotted a man alone, in front of the net, with the puck at his feet.  This was a 'time stands still' moment...as I saw the puck lying there, with the goalie committed, in the corner of my eye, I saw Steenson speed in from the side boards and absolutely flatten the Taipei player (just as the player didn't get Steenson's, I didn't get his number either) with a bone crushing open ice hit...but Steenson took the worst of it with a cut to the face and a 2:00 minute minor for body checking.  But, his teammates took notice...and the ice shifted to Hong Kong's favor suddenly in the game. 

The Taipei boyz were no longer crashing the net as they did early in the game...and Hong Kong was spending more and more time in the attacking zone.  But, again, the game would go deep into the 3rd period with a nil score, before Jamie Stark scored on a quick shot off the left side that beat goaltender John Osmar 'five hole' (pictured to the left...just before the puck hit the 'five hole').  It was then a matter of holding on for the Tigers...and they did with some great defense and stellar goal tending from Grant Phillips, who was called on to make a spectacular glove save with seconds left in the game to ice it.

As the teams were being awarded their medals, Expat Son thought it was pretty cool they all got medals after the game.  I asked him, 'Do you know why those guys (Taipei) are getting silver ones?'

"Yes, because they are second place."

"And what does it mean when you are in second place??"

"You are the first loser!"  Ahhhh...that's my boy!

Whew...After about 4 hours of hockey, it was time for a hearty meal at a nearby Ruby Tuesday.  I've eaten at Ruby's in the past in HK and the food has always been somewhat unspectacular...but this meal was fantastic.  A great day of hockey finished off by a massive hamburger, cooked properly, and a pint of Victoria Bitter.

I took a load of photos, with only a few being worthy of sharing (which is usual when taking sports photos).  It's been a long, long time since I have taken photos at a hockey game it was gratifying to know that I could still capture a moment or two in still.  I have a hell of a time with expat son's football matches, because I don't understand what is going to happen next...but with hockey, I can follow it through the lens (usually with both eyes open so I can see the whole game AND concentrate on focusing the camera on a specific player or the goal) and understand what is coming next in order to capture the winning shot.  Out of three games...I captured the winning goal in 2 of them.  Not bad.  You can see them here.

UPDATE:  Welcome to all those from WIHO.  Thanks for the links and credits to the photos.  Again...great game to watch...but I still say you were lucky to win.  Heh.  But, all that counts...is the win.

Censoring the train

During my recent visit to Hong Kong, it was the first time I had ridden the KCR from the border into the city in about 7 years.  As I was travelling the entire length of the KCR line, I sprung for the first class ticket in order to actually get a seat for the majority of the ride (I ended up giving it up for an old 'aiyee' 2/3 of the way through the trip).  In the car, there is a television running the local HK Cable TV 24 hr news channel.  They were reporting on the world and local news through the ride.

On my way back to the border, I was watching the news on the screen when a story came up about Albert Ho, Hong Kong's Democratic Party leader.  They showed a couple seconds of his face and then...commercial.  Just like here in GZ.  The broadcast was censored by the train company...INSIDE Hong Kong. 

Residents of Hong Kong...be very afraid.

The HK Border

Something I have always wanted to do...but have never seemed to be ready...is take a snapshot of the Chiner/HK border. 

One of the things that people always say when I tell them where we live is, 'Oh, you can go to HK then and get the things you need?'  Well, yeah we can...but, it is more of a trip than most realize.  You see, even though HK reverted to Chinese rule almost 10 years ago, they are far from being the same country or system.

When traveling to HK, the most convenient way for us to go is by train.  The train takes 2 hours time from point to point.  But, that doesn't include the time spent waiting in queues for immigration, customs, etc.  Generally, we leave our house by 8:30am and we are in a taxi in HK by 11:45am or Noontime.  I think most people don't realize is when we travel to HK, we have to bring our passports  and fill out all the immigration paperwork each and every time.  The passport gets thick and filled quickly with all that bouncing back and forth. 

Back to the original intent of this post!  When traveling by train across the border, we pass through 'no man's land' between HK and China.  It's not much...just a quick pass over the Shenzhen River (which is more like a creek at the point of crossing).  The first picture is directly over of the river...you can see the buildings on both sides of the border and you can make out the barbed wire on top of those buildings as well.   

Just inside the China border, you find this guard post with two smiling members of the PLA.  In the pre-handover days, these gentlemen were fully equipped with side and shoulder weapons.  Today, they still stand guard behind the barbed wire fences, but they do not carry the weapons they once did.  It's a 'kindler-gentler' PLA for you.

I've never been able to get a photo of these guys because I was usually; a) asleep, b) screwing with my mobile phone, c) on the wrong side of the train, d) not thinking about it at the time.  So, I made it a point this time to get a picture of our welcome home committee.

Have Another Donut!

Much to our surprise, we stumbled across a Krispy Kreme in Hong Kong.  The whole of Asia is polluted with KFC, McD's and Pizza Hut...but to find some of the other jewels of American fast food in the midst of unfamiliarity is always a treat (did you know there is a Popeye's in HKIA, after immigration, though!  What are they thinking?!?). 

After we had eaten lunch, we walked up the street for a treat.  Expat Daughter immediately shouted, 'The HOT NOW sign is on!  We gotta go in!'  In we went...and...despite the sign being lit, the machine was idle.  As is the usual in Chiner, we were duped. 

Be that as it may...I still had to order up a batch.  I asked for 1/2 dozen...and some napkins.  They weren't the 'HOT NOW' versions...but they were good just the same.

Hardship post

This from the FT...

“More people are now seeing Hong Kong as a hardship posting,” said Gary Lazzarotto, Hudson’s chief executive officer in Asia.

According to the survey of 274 senior executives, mostly from multinationals, 35 per cent of companies are having difficulties in persuading foreign workers to move to Hong Kong because of air pollution.

About 52 per cent of the respondents said they had to offer overseas executives more incentives to move to Hong Kong, including “much higher” salary packages and higher housing allowances.

“There is a fierce war for talents in Asia but Hong Kong is fighting its battle [with] one hand behind its back,” Mr Lazzarotto said.

Ahem...err....BWWAAAAAHHAHAHAHAHHAHAHHA!  You gotta be kidding me.  Someone, quick!  Send this to my boss and tell him all about GZ!!!  Cuz I don't see anyone busting down my doors to increase my hardship pay because of pollution...

Expats in HK...take a train ride...about 45 minutes from Kowloon.  Then, venture across the border to Shenzhen.  You want to see pollution...look in the river...look in the alleys...look in the sky.  Although you are barely 1 hour from the heart of HK, the pollution is perceptibally worse than what you are living with.  Now...keep going north on that train to DongGuan or Guangzhou...and the stop your whining.

“If you give someone a regional role and ask them to choose to be based in Hong Kong or Singapore, most people are going to say Singapore,” said Mr Lazzarotto.

Duh.

Those rude Asians

A recent survey has pointed out that most large Asian cities are rude.  Hmmm...

I agree with Asiapundit's observations...

AsiaPundit is actually shocked by this, in no small part because New York captured the number one position as the most courteous. The Big Apple is a favorite city, but it does not have a reputation for politeness.

Going through the list of cities...I have experienced quite a few of these cities across Asia and the world.  The Asian cities all brought up the bottom of the list.  I have the most experience with Hong Kong. 

The number one issue I have had in Hong Kong are in the shopping malls.  It may be a crowded Saturday or Sunday...when you walk through the mall, as Westerners, we tend to pay attention to the people coming at us and give way a bit.  When in Hong Kong, observe that you are the ONLY person doing that...the locals pay no attention.  It becomes obvious that if you do not give way, you will be smacked around like a pinball game.  So, square your shoulders, prepare for the onslaught and walk in a straight line through the mall.  You will end up with bruised shoulders within an hour.  AND...every time someone runs into you, they look at you like you are some sort of brute. 

The list also does not contain any cities in China (Hong Kong doesn't count, as they did not even indicate that Hong Kong is in China on the list...note to Reader's Digest...The British gave up HK in 1997).  Should we talk about GZ?  Start with elevators...crowding in without allowing people to exit...getting in the down lift when you want to go up...not looking to see who on the elevator is trying to get off from the back, and just standing in the doorway until the doors close and the other passengers could not get off...on and on. 

But, I have to say, between GZ and HK...you are more likely to experience a random act of kindness in HK.  Such as, tai-tai was struggling with the stroller and shopping bags whe expat son was quite small.  We were on our way to the Fleet Arcade which the roads have very few pedestrians.  She came up to a cross walk, I was about 5 paces behind with expat daughter in tow.  The road to cross was under construction and a bit treacherous for the stroller.  A man, the only other person on the street, stopped and asked if he could help.  He lifted the stroller and carried it across the street for tai-tai...even though I was right there.  We stood in stunned amazement.  Never, ever in GZ.  Ever. 

The Old Bailey

Hong Kong recently closed its oldest jail...and people don't seem to know what to do with it:

Although the last prisoners were released a couple of months ago, no one - not the government, not the property men, not the architects, not the preservationists - knows quite what to do with the place.

It is an awkward moment for a city long dedicated to the newest, tallest, most efficient and most profitable. There is widening concern here over the overall health of a society that has little in the way of collective memory

The Old Bailey is located in one of Hong Kong's more fashionable restaurant districts, Soho.  Surely, someone with some insight could see the old jailhouse as either a bed and breakfast, or a meeting/business center located in the heart of the gastronomic paradise of HK? 

Where are the McMenamin brothers when you need them??